Introduction of NaDES in cosmetic formulation: phycocyanin-enriched extracts as case study
Résumé
Introduction: Natural deep Eutectic Solvents (NaDES) as novel green solvents have gained in recent years a positive momentum for cosmetic ingredients preparation. Their high solvent power, combined with their stabilizing ability, make NaDES a sustainable alternative to prepare ingredients from vegetal or biotechnological biomasses. Recently, spirulina (Arthrospira platensis) as a renewable source of numerous bioactive compounds has caught the attention of professionals in the cosmetic field. Glucose/Glycerol (GG) NaDES has displayed a great potential for both extraction and stabilization of several antioxidants and pigments from spirulina. This study aims to evaluate the impact of the incorporation of a NaDES-based phycocyanin-enriched extract in cosmetic formulations intended for skin application.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Characterization 4 W/O emulsions were successfully prepared pH 5.5-6.5
Emulsions with DES present a pseudoplastic behavior, which means that their viscosity decreases when shear stress is applied. This is important for topical delivery because you want to easily spread the formulation on to the skin but don't want it to run off after application.
Oscillation measurements showed that the emulsions with DES are less robust than the ones with Transcutol. However they maintain their gel-like properties and have long-term storage stability.
Emulsions with glycol and with 1% of DES have the desired uniform distribution with 90% of the droplets having a size around 5 µm. The emulsion with 5% DES has a bimodal distribution.
Domaines
ChimieOrigine | Fichiers produits par l'(les) auteur(s) |
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